Andbew f



A. I. BAUM.

(No Model.)

SHIRT.

Pangaea Aug. 14, 1883.

INVENTOR i ATTORNEYS:

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ANDREW F. BAUM, or A LENTO N, PENNsYLvANIA.

sH l RT. I

SPECIFICATION forming part'of Letters Patent'No. 283,190, dated August 14, 1883, 3 Application filed June 13, 19,83. (N0 model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ANDREW F.' BAUM, of Allentown, in the county of Lehigh and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a, new and Improved Shirt, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention has reference to shirt bosoms and the manner of attaching them to or setting them in the shirt-body, the obj ect being to pro .vide abosom which, when set in, shall always the bosom for concealment of the shirt-body at the front above the waistline of the pants.

The invention consists in a shirtbosom,;the

layers or thicknesses of the material of which are joined at the sides andbottom at a distance from the extreme edges to form a strip or band to connect the bosom to the body of the shirt, which strip or band extends all round the sides and bottom of the shirt-bosom, and is of a less thickness than the main front or body of the bosom, to be flexible with relation to the said main portion or body of the bosom, so as to bend orwrinkle in wear, while the.

bosom proper remains stifi and smooth, the

bosom being made also with a loose edge, flap,

or plait all around its sides and lower end,

which plait overlaps the flexible strip, topartly or wholly conceal the strip, to afforda pleas, ing finish to the edges of the bosom, and to aid in maintaining the smooth finish of the bosom.

. The invention "consists, also, in the combination, with a shirt-bosom so formed and applied to or set in the shirt-body, of a separate downward extension of the bosom formed in i a practical continuation thereof, and of one or more layers of material stitched all around its edges to the shirt-body, below the opening therein for the bosom proper, the loose lower edge of which meets or overlaps the upper edge of the extension-bosom, to which the usual button-hole tab is or may be attached, all as hereinafter fully described and claimed. Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which'similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts inall the figures.

Figure 1 is a partly broken front View of a shirt to which my improved bosom'has been applied; and Figs. 2, 3, and A are cross-sectional views on the line as m, Fig. 1, and showing slightly Varying but substantially similar modes of carrying out the principal part of my invention.

A represents the shirt-body; B, the bosom proper C, the downward face-extension of the bosom D, the yoke-pieces; E, the collar-band, and F the sleeves, the yoke-pieces, collar-band, and sleeves being fitted to the shirt-body in the usual or any approved way. i

In making the improved bosom B in the preferred manner, and as represented in Figs. 1 and 3, whereinfour thicknesses of material are employed, 1 take a back. or inner lining piece or layer,b, preferably of the coarser fabric usually employed, next to which I place two thicknesses or intermediate filling or stiffening layers, 1) b, and over the latter lay the front or finish face I) .of the bosom. These parts I shape to any desired pattern to fit the collar-band E and yoke-pieces D at the top,

and in the example shown the opposite side edges of the bosom are cut straight down and about parallel with each other from the yokes D to the points 0 at either side, and from thence converge slightly to the corners 0, between which the lower edge of the bosom is cut horizontally in about a straight line, as at 0 and the distance between the points or the length at the bottom 0" mayvary as desired for bosoms of different widths, the squarebot tom to the bosom being the preferred form when the lower extension, 0, is used; but I wish it understood, that when this lower extension, 0, is dispensed with thebosom proper, B, maybe prolonged to receive the button-hole tab G, and the lower end of the bosom may be quite narrow, and either rounded or squared or be brought to a point, and the upper end of the bosom may be narrowed toward the neckband from either side, all of which marginal contours of the shirt-bosom my improvements freely admit of to accommodate the skill of] Z) to better display the construction; but in the designer and the taste or fancy of the wearer. After they are properly shaped I connect the layers of the bosom together by lines of stitching d, as in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4,

said stitching d, ranging about parallel with the edges of the shirt-bosom,, and preferably about an inch or an inch and a half from the extreme side edges, and a somewhat greater distancesay two inches, or morefrom the extreme bottom orlower endof the bosomyto provide for the increased range of flexibility required at that point. WVhen the bosom is thus shaped and stitched at (Z, and in the pre ferred construction of Fig.- 3, the face or finish layer Z2 and the two intermediate or stiffening lining layers 1) are suitably turned in at the extreme side and lower edges and joined there at by one or more rows of stitching, 6, thus leaving the back lining-layer, 1), free fromthe other thicknesses or layers of the bosom from the stitching d to the extreme edges of the said I portion, which plait H is free from connection directly to or with the cotton or other usually cheaper fabric of the shirt-body A, and, secondly, a band or strip, Z), which is relatively more limp and flexible than the main body of the bosom, and will consequently wrinkle or bend first in use, and thus preserve the'stiff and smooth laundry-finish of the bosom, while affording or permitting the greatest freedom of movement of the wearer, either sidewis'e or forward or backward, without throwing the bosom out of 'shape.-

The particular construction of the bosom and method of attachment to the shirt-body may vary, if 'desiredfor instance, as in Fig. 2, where the bosom is made in but three thicknesses. The loose plait H has but two thicknesses, and the bosom is connected to the shirtbodyA by the single flexible connecting-strip b, and in Fig. 4 the plait Hhas but two thicknesses, and the flexible connecting-strip I) also has two thicknesses, while the bosom proper, B, has four thicknesses, as in Fig. 3. It will be noticed that in all these instances the same special features of construction predominate that is to say, the set-in bosom B has a loose plait II 011 the finish side and a band or strip, 2), for the connection of the bosom to the shirtbody, which strip b is relatively more flexible than the main body of the bosom, the plait H and strip b extending all around the side and lower edges of the bosom, and other modifications may be made within the scope of my invention.

I have shown the plait II finished narrower at the sides than the flexible connecting-strip practice I shallmakethe plait II to reach to the stitching f, or still wider,to overlap slightly upon the shirt-body beyond the line of stitchingf, to fully cover and conceal the connecting-strip I)" from view.

Vith a shirt-bosom thus constructed and attach ed the bosom may always be laundered and worn without the puffing up or blistering of the finish face, so common where a composite muslin and linen bosom is used, or where a linen bosom is sewed upon a muslin backing or front of the shirt-body, either wholly or partly around the edges of its finish face, and by the connection of the flexible strip b only with the shirt-body all overthickness at the joining of the bosom with the shirt-body is avoided, and excessive strain at said joining on either the bosom or shirtbody is prevented, which renders the usua re-enforcement of the shirt bosom and body unnecessary, thus not only cheapening the shirt but making it more comfortable to wear.

I would also state that any one or two of the back lining-layers, Z) or b, of the shirt-bosom may be extended beyondthe line (1 of stitching to connectas the flexible strip b"to the shirt-body.

The extension 0 of the bosom, whilenot being a necessary adjunct of the upper or main bosom, B, affords a convenient means of attachment for the tab G, and prevents exposure of the body of the shirt at the front, below bosom B and above the waist-line of the pants.

I prefer to connect the top of' section 0 to the body of the shirt by the same row of stitching, f, which connects the lower flexible strip, b, to the body, as shown, the other marginal portions of extensions'O being secured to the body of the shirt by the stitching g, as in Fig. 1, and the front of the extension 0 will preferably be finished with plaits h, or otherwise, to correspond with the finish of the main bosom B. I

My improvements may be applied to bosoms intended to open centrally at or along the front quite as easily as to shirts opening at the back, which latter construction is shown in the drawings.

I do not abandon or dedicate to the public any patentable features set forth herein and not hereinafter claimed; but reserve the right to claim the same either in a reissueof any pat ent that may be granted upon this application or in other applications for Letters Patent that I may make.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A shirt made with a set in bosom, having a loose plait or edge all around its sides and lower portion, and a contiguous flexible strip relatively more pliable than the main body of the bosom, and by which the bosom is connected to the shirt-body, substantially as shown and described.

2. A shirt made, substantially as herein shown and described, with a set-in bosom, having a loose 'plait or edge all around its sides and lower portion, and attached to the shirt-body along the sides and lower part of the bosom by a single layer or thickness of the material of the bosom, as set forth.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a shirt bosom formed along its side and lower edges with a flexible connecting-strip, b and aloose face lait or edge, H, substantially as and for the purposes set' forth.

4. The combination, in a shirt, of thebosom B, formed with a flexible connecting-strip, I),

and an edge facelait, H, and the body A, cut out for connection of the strip-b therewith,

edge to edge, substantially as shown and described.

The combination, in ashirt, of the bosom B, having a flexible connecting-strip b and plait Hall around its sides and lower edge, 20

the body A cut out for connection of the bosom by and at the edge of strip 7)", and the eX- tension G of the bosom attached to the face of the shirt-body, substantially as shown and described.

ANDREVV F. BAUM.

\Vitnesses: a

HENRY L. GOODWIN,

(3. Snnewron. 

